Showing posts with label Trips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Trips. Show all posts

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Captain, Turn this Boat Around!

Looking Back toward Inishmore
Looking Back for the Last Time (We Thought) toward Kilronan and Inishmore from Galway Bay, August, 2006

We're going back. Not next year, but the year after. Back to Galway Bay, back to the Bothy, back to Dublin, back to Birr. We're so giddy, we could just, well, expectorate, I suppose. Aside from the possibility of a global economic meltdown (even which may not be enough to prevent the trip), our only worry right now is caretaking of Ft. Harrington.

Giddy, we are. Big-time.

Saturday, August 2, 2008

Fishy Friday


My summer school class is almost over now. The summer session at DeAnza is six weeks long; classes meet for an extended time Monday through Thursday, but do not meet at all on Friday. Looking over our schedule, Diane and I found that we had a three-week stretch in late July and early August in which we had no commitments of any kind on these bonus Fridays.

Like many other Americans, I suppose, we have been very tight with our purse strings as we learn to deal with the new economic realities. A traditional vacation of any kind was out for this summer -- not even a trip to Southern California, let alone Southern Ireland was envisioned. So we looked at those three Fridays as our summer vacation opportunity, sort of a "stay-cation" but not exactly. We called them collectively our "fake-cation."

We live in Northern California, a region that people travel thousands of miles to visit on real vacations from places like Europe, Asia, and even fabled New Jersey. So why not be tourists in our own land? After all, we wouldn't have to book flights or hotels.

Two weeks ago, we took our Friday in San Francisco, at the Chihuly exhibit in the deYoung museum in Golden Gate Park. Last week, we toured the fabulous Filoli mansion and gardens on the San Francisco peninsula. And yesterday we finished the Friday trio by driving about an hour south of Fort Harrington to the Monterey Peninsula and the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

Fake-cation locales: Monterey, Boulder Creek, Filoli, and San Francisco. Click the image for a legible version.

Main entrance to the Aquarium. The smokestacks are from preserved boilers of the old Hovden fish cannery, within whose remodeled shell the aquarium was built. The aquarium is at the north end of Monterey's famed cannery row.

The aquarium's tidepool from ground level...

... and from the third floor balcony.

A three-story kelp forest display.

Answer: Hold the anchovies.
Question: What is this tank designed to do?

One of the most inspiring of the aquarium's exhibits is its wing devoted to jellyfish. Above, we are part of the crowd mesmerized by the rhythmic, drifting dance in the huge tank of Black Sea Nettles. (As has been the case wherever we have gone on this fake-cation, I'm struck by the number of people taking photographs where photos would have been impossible before the advent of easy digital photography -- and by the new standard posture for taking pictures: holding the camera at arm's length and looking at its lcd rather than through a viewfinder mashed up against the photographer's nose as George Eastman intended. Of course, that's not entirely new: my mother favored a twin-lens reflex camera, and the Apollo moonwalkers -- who couldn't get a camera closer to their eyes than their helmet faceplate -- used magnificent 70mm Hasselblads. In my mother's camera, she could frame a shot by looking at its projection on a ground-glass screen; the Apollo Hasselblads had no viewfinder at all! But, ah, I digress as though I was over 60.)

Black Sea Nettle.

Black Sea Nettles. Photographing these creatures was a challenge for me, since (like the Chihuly exhibit two weeks ago) the subjects were aglow in a very faint environment, but (unlike the Chihuly exhibit) they were also in motion.

Black Sea Nettles up close.

An "egg yolk" jellyfish.

There are many parts of the aquarium that are geared toward children, and in them I found two kinds of critters that I did not know exist! The first was a tiny kind of fish called "Leaping Blennies"...




... and above is a blue leaping blennie resting temporarily on its little rock. The fish is about two inches long, and its jumps are not modest -- they spring several inches at a leap, and do so frequently.

I also had been unaware of sea dragons. You might not be able to make the above one out because its camouflage is so good, but once you see one...



... against a blank background, it becomes easier. (These dragons are only about five inches long.)





The pervasive displays geared toward children are all done in a remarkably effective and non-condescending way. The adults we saw seemed to be enjoying them as much as their children were, and the children were, pretty much, enthralled. These two images are cropped from other shots; the kids just happened to be in the frames.





A gray whale skeleton hovers over the plaza in front of the cafeteria, and a balcony by the otter tank provides a startling nose-on view:




The aquarium's exterior provides spectacular views of Monterey Bay. Above, we're looking North from a second-floor balcony across the Bay toward Santa Cruz. Barely visible in the distance are our home Santa Cruz Mountains.

As noted before, the aquarium is situated at the north end of Cannery Row. Above, we're looking southward from the museum along Cannery Row.

Lunch locale and a bust of Steinbeck.
You have to work hard to find a line of sight along Cannery Row that doesn't include an image of Steinbeck. He's on banners along the street, portraits in art galleries, and, as above, in statuary. The main gift shop in the aquarium even has a display offering copies of every one of his books. No plush toys of Lennie, though.

Local color.

We had a wonderful time at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, as we did at our previous two stops on our fake-cation, but here's some advice for people who travel from outside the Bay Area: don't make this a day trip from San Francisco. The aquarium experience is at its best very early in the morning (it opens at 9:30) and gets very, very crowded in the summer months after noon. Staying a night in one of the many good hotels or decent motels in the Monterey area will allow you to take in the whole aquarium during the morning hours and free the afternoon for touring the Monterey Peninsula, Carmel, and Big Sur (providing, of course, that they are not on fire at the time of your visit.)

Saturday, July 26, 2008

Filoli Friday

Filoli's west side. The back of the mansion faces the valley and the gardens.

Two years ago this week, Diane and I left for a month in Ireland, where we made the Birr Castle Demesne our home base. Feeling a bit homesick for the sense of gentility afforded by a huge mansion and surrounding gardens, we took a little trip yesterday to the nearest one of those to us that's open to the public: Filoli, near Woodside, California.

For those not inclined to track down all the details in Filoli's website, here's the short version: The mansion and its grounds are about 30 miles south of San Francisco, in a lovely valley that includes the Crystal Springs reservoir and its surrounding preserved wildlands. Built in 1917 by the Bourn family of San Francisco (who gathered their wealth the old-fashioned California way: they mined it), the estate's name is a severe distillation of William Bowers Bourn II's affected credo: "Fight for a just cause; love your fellow man; live a good life." That origin also explains its seemingly-odd pronunciation among his former estate's current staff: "fye-LUH-lih." Just about everyone else pronounces it "fih-LOW-lee," thus sounding stylishly Italian.

The mansion itself is an odd hodgepodge of various elegant architectural styles, and is certainly impressive if only for its size. Its grand two stories comprise 43 rooms and its demesne's 650 acres include 16 acres of formal gardens. Now operated by the non-profit Filoli Center for the National Trust for Historic Preservation, the house, gardens, and visitors' center are open to the public six days a week for a modest entry fee. Out of sight of highways, hidden away from any major metropolitan center, it is one of the San Francisco Bay Area's lesser-known delights.

Here's the now-customary SherWords Google Earth geographical context provision:

(Click the image to see an acceptable version. For Google Earth users: the marker for Filoli is in the entry courtyard of the mansion, 37°28'13.62"N , 122°18'38.33"W -- cut 'n' paste into Google Earth, and you're there! Great, highly-detailed aerial photographic coverage of the whole demesne is available there, too.)

Diane and I had visited Filoli once before, in 1997, so we knew to duck through this door to get to the gardens quickly. It reminded us of a more modest door to a grand place that we used a lot two years ago.

The stable's clock tower is something of an icon for Filoli. Here we see it from the west across a lily pond; behind us is a swimming pool. The stable is now a gift shop.

The formal gardens are rich with more than fifty varieties of well-kept roses. Above is a "McCartney," and below...

... is an "October" (complete with an October surprise, appropriate for this presidential election year.)

Diane, over the hedge. It's a prickly hedge, too: holly.

Dozens of cylindrically-trimmed, grand Irish Yews oversee the formal gardens and the mansion's lawns. This canyon of them stretches downhill and northward from an alcove behind us that is a popular wedding site.

Walls and gates pervade the place, evoking everyone's inner "Secret Garden" sense of wonder. Here, hydrangeas beckon to a door to a softly wild, tropical part of the gardens.

The main (east) entrance to the mansion, festooned with the second-best wysteria we know. The best, of course, is one in the Birr Castle magic earldom, but you're probably rolling your eyeballs at those references by now, so I won't include a link.

Foyer.

Library. If you click on the image to enlarge it, you'll get a better view of that grand old celestial globe, which captivated me until a docent told me to take my grubby, proletarian hands off it. Well, not in those words, precisely, but you could just hear them, anyway.

The most popular room in the mansion yesterday was this one: the kitchen. Actually, the kitchen is a three-room complex, consisting of this huge one with the stove(s), a smaller food-preparation room, and the "Butler's Pantry." That last included a huge switchboard on one wall for communication with various rooms in the manse -- and a large, walk-in vault (complete with bank-sized vault-safe door) for the family silverware.

(Aside: there were very few people visiting Filoli yesterday, and, as Diane had predicted, many of them were speaking German and French: people spending their hard-earned euros on our cutrate goodies.)

These twelve slides and two dozen others (including other roses -- and a great croquet lawn for Adam's Uncle Bob, if he ever sees this) can be seen at higher resolution by clicking here.

By the way, if the mansion and its grounds look familiar to you, and if you watched much TV in the 1980's, this is the probable reason for its familiarity:


... the mansion in the credits is Filoli, and a lot of Dynasty, despite its putative Colorado locale, was filmed there.

If you're ever in the San Francisco Bay Area and have half a day to spend in a quiet, beautiful location, you could do worse than Filoli. But you'd better be quick about it. The mansion is a big pile of bricks, erected directly over the San Andreas Fault just ten years after that part of the fault broke in 1906. The fault hasn't budged since, the two sides of the crack under the mansion locked, building up titanic stress. I wouldn't want to be there when it lets go. My geologist friends tell me that a typical time between fault snaps in the Crystal Springs valley is a century, give or take a few decades, so it's due.

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Glass Friday

Chihuly at the deYoung, July 18, 2008
(update, July 24: more photos are available by
clicking here.)

As an astronomer, I suppose that I am predisposed to be fascinated by unusual things that glow in the dark. As a former telescope-maker, I am certainly predisposed to appreciate masterful glasswork. As a human being, I am predisposed to appreciate beauty.

No wonder, then, that I was absolutely blown completely away (at least until lunch) by the display of Dale Chihuly's work at San Francisco's deYoung Museum last Friday.

(NOTE: I have uploaded larger than usual original images to Blogger for this post; my standard is 800 pixels on the larger side, but these are 1,000 pixels on the larger side, and they are very well worth viewing at that resolution. You can do so by clicking on any image in this post.)

An early display in the exhibit: autumn comes in large glass leaves.

Chihuly's work is deliciously slathered in controversy in artsy circles. He doesn't actually fabricate the pieces himself, he self-promotes agressively, he has legions of hired minions, he uses light (and marketing) in ways reminiscent of Kinkade... to all of which I say, "so what?" Diane's and my hour in the darkened tunnel of the deYoung's Chihuly exhibit was a jubilant one, a time of slack-jawed grinning that was every bit as energizing as a trip down Disneyland's Splash Mountain waterfall. If that ain't cerebral enough for true art appreciation, then so be it.

The exhibit is popular enough that even museum members need to call ahead for timed tickets, so the darkened trail that winds through the Chihuly exhibit is always pretty well crowded. That prohibited bringing my tripod, so I had to resort to various less-than-optimum hardware and software compromises in order to capture these images. I think they came out pretty well -- for what they are -- but, keep in mind, that they are very, very poor representations of how breathtaking the display really is.

Glass Baskets

Macchia Forest #1

Macchia Forest #2

The "candles" in this work are approximately five feet tall.

Boatloads of Fantasy

Chandelier Room

A Grand Chandelier (about ten feet tall).

Chandelier Detail

A Good Glass Ceiling

Glass Ceiling Detail

Climactic Display: Starting End

Climactic Display: Finishing End

Climactic Display: Detail
A photographer's adjustment I learned to make during the trip through the exhibit was to use my camera's polarizing filter to enhance, rather than minimize, reflections. (The polarizer is almost always used to supress glare and reflections.) It became clear as we went along that there were two major actors in the Chihuly exhibit: the glassworks and the lighting, and that the latter -- including reflections, highlights, etc. -- was absolutely the equal of the former in the overall performance and impact of the work.

At the end of the exhibit is, of course, a gift shop, which includes the opportunity to buy some original products from the Chihuly enterprise. Like this little blue basket. Its size is calibrated by the credit-card-sized price tag at left... for more than $6,000. Mrs. Fort and I opted for a book, instead.

The Chihuly exhibit at the deYoung runs through late September. I strongly urge any of my California readers who haven't been to it yet to hie themselves thereto. It is, to paraphrase Michael Jagger, a glass, glass, glass.